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What is GMO and What Does It Mean for My Animals?

Oh my gosh! If you have done any research into feeding your poultry, you have more than likely run across the terms GMO and non-GMO. The more you read, the more confusing it seems to get. On the surface, you kind of come to understand that GMO is bad and non-GMO is good. But really, what is GMO, what does it mean to our farm and farm animals, and how do we know what we are getting?

GMO stands for Genetically Modified Organism. GMO is the common term used to describe plants and animals or microbes in which DNA has been modified to include some desirable traits or exclude less desirable traits. This might be done by adding new genes, modifying pre-existing ones, or even removing some. It is believed that genetic modifications in agriculture have been going on since man first started farming. These modifications were accomplished through selective breeding, resulting in crops and animals that were more suited to specific terrains, environments, and weather conditions. Today however, GMO refers more to genetic modifications that have been made in a laboratory using genetic engineering and transgenic technology, adding genes, removing genes, or replacing genes. This creates combinations of plant, animal, bacteria, and virus genes that do not naturally occur in nature or through traditional crossbreeding or selective breeding methods.

The FDA, in their Timeline of Genetic Modifications, credits the development of genetic engineering in 1973 to two scientists who successfully figured out how to remove a gene from one organism and put it into another. The first genetically engineered crop was introduced in the US in 1994. It was the Flavr Savr tomato, modified to delay ripening. GMO seeds first became commercially available in the US in 1996. As of 2020, 94% of all soybean crops and 92% of all corn crops grown in the US were GMO. Today, there are a lot of human-grade foods that are GMO or contain GMO ingredients, but the majority of the GMO products that are grown in the United States are used in animal feed. It is believed that 95% of all animals used commercially for meat or dairy in the United States eat GMO food products.

It appears that there is a lot of controversy related to not only the use of GMO products but also the process of genetically altering organisms. Some feel that it is just not right to mess with Mother Nature in this way. Some religious and cultural communities are opposed to eating GMO food products, believing that this is an unnatural way of producing foods. Of course, genetic engineering of foods is fairly new, and although short-term testing has proven favorable in most cases, there is concern regarding the long-term effects of genetically modifying foods. After all, we have just recently begun to understand the harmful effects of microplastics, and plastic has been on the scene for a lot longer than GMOs.

It does appear that there are many positive outcomes resulting from genetic engineering, such as increased production of agricultural products as well as increased nutritional value. The results of engineered modifications can be realized in a shorter span of time compared to selective or crossbreeding methods. GMOs can also be good for the environment as crops can be engineered to require less watering or be made more resistant to pests, requiring the use of less pesticides. These crop improvements have the possibility of resulting in decreased consumer costs. GMOs have been used in livestock to eliminate characteristics that can be harmful if consumed by people with specific medical issues, and GMO was actually used when creating the first human insulin, a drug used to treat diabetes.

There is also a downside to instituting GMO processes. There is concern that cross-pollination with GMO plant species could have negative effects on native plants and pests. Genetic engineering could result in the evolution of super-pests and/or super-weeds or allow a once minor species of either pests or weeds to then become dominant. It is thought that some food products could become more allergenic due to genetic engineering, especially those food products which are known to be at a higher risk for allergic reactions, ie, peanuts and wheat. There are also concerns that the increased use of GMO products seems to correlate with an increase in some health issues in both people and livestock.

‘Smart Labels’ seem to be the new thing. To find out if a product is GMO or Non-GMO,
you need to scan a QR code that is on the back of the product’s packaging. In some
cases, you will also need to click on the ‘view certifications’ symbol.

Previously, in the United States, producers and sellers of GMO products were not required to label products as genetically modified. Due to the increase in GMO production, new processes, and public concern, the government is now requiring that GMO products intended for human consumption, as well as products that contain more than 5% bioengineered ingredients, be labeled. There is the belief that consumers have a right to know what food products they are eating. Of course, there are always the exclusions, and current labeling is limited to merely informing the consumer that a product is genetically modified but does not specify how it was modified or for what purpose. I could not find any information regarding the required labeling of animal feed, but a source involved with regulatory compliance of food sources informed me that there is legislation in the works to require labeling, but is not in place as of yet.

So, what does all of this mean for you and your farm? Chances are you have either worn, eaten, fed, or planted a GMO product, with or without knowing it. Your job as a small farmer is to decide your feelings regarding the use of GMO products for you, your family, and your animals. If you are opposed to GMO food sources for your animals, you can opt for organically grown products. In order to be classified as organic, food products can NOT have been genetically modified or contain any genetically modified ingredients. As well, organic animals cannot have eaten any GMO products. If you have the garden space, you can grow your own food for your animals, or at least a portion of it. GMO seeds appear to be available only to commercial farms. According to the FDA, seeds for the backyard gardener are not being genetically modified mainly due to cost factors. Many non-GMO proponents mention Monsanto seeds, which are 2nd generation-sterile. Reportedly, Monsanto has the patent to this sterilization technology, but claims not to use it. If you are concerned about the possibility of GMO seeds, use an heirloom variety. All heirloom seeds are non-GMO. Another option is feeding your animals food substitutes. We know that corn and soybeans are mainly GMO crops, so substitute foods like wheat, rice, barley, oats, lentils, peas, and sunflower seeds into your animal’s feed. Discover what your animals like and what meets their specific nutritional needs, then go for it!

Whether you go GMO or non-GMO is up to you; it’s a personal choice. There is no solid right or wrong answer at this time. I don’t believe genetic modification will be going away any time soon, but more likely expanding and being refined. Weighing the pros and cons of GMO processes will help you decide what is right for your farm and your animals, and that is what’s important: deciding what works and is right for YOU!

Sources:

https://www.studysmarter.co.uk/explanations/combined-science/synergy/genetic-modification

https://www.fda.gov/food/agricultural-biotechnology/how-gmos-are-regulated-united-states

https://www.fda.gov/food/agricultural-biotechnology/gmo-crops-animal-food-and-beyond

https://www.fda.gov/food/agricultural-biotechnology/gmo-crops-and-food-animals

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5790416

https://www.nongmoproject.org/risk-status/

https://tracegains.com/blog/pros-and-cons-of-mandatory-gmo-labeling

https://www.fda.gov/food/agricultural-biotechnology/science-and-history-gmos-and-other-food-modification-processes

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Preparing to Incubate Chicken Eggs: A Step-by-Step Guide

I’ve had chickens for a long time now, and every year or two, I go to my local feed store or online hatchery and order some baby chicks so that I can keep a decent supply of fresh eggs for my family year-round. In recent years, due to a pandemic and economic scares, it seems that more and more folks are attempting to become self-sufficient on some level, and raising chickens is on the incline; therefore, being able to procure baby chicks at a reasonable price has been on the decline. Don’t get me wrong, I applaud all those gearing up for elf-sufficiency it is a good thing. But, in figuring out ways to reduce my expenses last year, I decided that I was going to incubate and hatch my own chickens. This is not something that a chicken farmer should jump right into if you want to be successful. There are a few things that need consideration and planning.

The first thing that should be decided on are your goals for incubating and hatching chicks. Are you doing it for personal use or profit, or maybe a combination? It should be understood that just because you are hatching chicks to continue with egg production, your hatch will most like;y include many male chickens. What will you do with all those roosters? You should consider as well, the type of bird you want to breed. Are you looking for strictly high egg producers or a combination of good egg layer/meat bird? Are you thinking that you can sell day-old chicks, pullets, roosters, and/or extra eggs? Are you looking for specific breed qualities and characteristics, or is a barnyard mix-breed ok with you? I have noticed that in the rural area I live in, there is a market for fresh eggs and pullets, which are nearing egg-laying maturity. I do have family members who would be interested in chickens for eating, so that helps with the question of what to do with unwanted roosters. And, of course, you should think about numbers. Will the cost of an incubator be less than the cost of purchased chicks?

Last spring, when I decided that I was going to incubate and hatch my own chicks, I decided what my goals were: birds who were friendly, good brooders, above-average egg producers, and were also a good meat bird. I wanted hens who were good brooders so that I could rely on them to hatch and nurture chicks if that needed to be an option. I definitely want a good supply of eggs for my family, and a good meat bird is a must if I am looking for something to do with excess roosters. I decided on a breed of bird that I felt met these requirements, knowing that if I was happy with the results and decided to continue incubating and hatching chicks, I had a second breed of bird in mind that I would try next. So, in May of last year, I purchased ten Buff Orpingtons. As it turned out, one died and one is a rooster, thankfully. I have eight laying Orpington hens. They started laying mid November and continued laying through the winter. They are getting to the age where their eggs should be good for incubating and hatching.

At this point, I have been researching incubators. In choosing an incubator, it’s important to consider how many eggs and what type of eggs you are interested in hatching. I also want to hatch some duck eggs, so that will factor into my decision. Of course, price is a consideration, as are things like an automatic egg turner, stable temperature and humidity controls, an external water reservoir, egg visibility, and an egg candler. Be sure to read and watch lots of reviews on the incubators you are considering, the good and the bad. What someone deems a fault, you might be able to live with if the price is right or there is a suitable trade-off. Make sure to note any necessary accessories that might be required. Think about where you will house your incubator while it is operational. It should be somewhere where the room temperature is fairly consistent, is out of the way of other animals and is located where you will be inclined to check on it throughout the day.

Once you have your incubator all set up and it is working, it is time to start accumulating your fertilized eggs. Of course, it goes without saying, there must be at least one rooster in your flock in order for you to obtain fertile eggs. No rooster, no fertile eggs. An interesting fact regarding the mating ritual of chickens is that once the sperm from the rooster is deposited into the hen, the sperm can be stored inside the hen to fertilize eggs for days and even weeks after mating occurred. It takes a minimum of 36 hours for a hen to produce a hatchable fertile egg after mating. Once a hen lays an egg, it can be collected and stored at a cooler temperature, generally between 55 degrees F and 65 degrees F, for a period of about two weeks. The cooler temperature suspends the growth of the embryo inside the egg. This allows for the mother hen to be able to lay a nice clutch of eggs over a 2 week period and then begin to incubate the eggs and have them all hatch at about the same time. When the mother hens sits on the nest full-time, the increase in temperature due to her body heat will end the growth suspension, and embryonic development will begin once again. Pretty cool! Once a hen selects a nest for her eggs, she will lay one egg per day. Each day that she returns to the nest to lay an additional egg, she will instinctively turn all of the eggs in the nest. There are strands of white tissue called chalazae inside the egg that hold the yolk centered. Turning the egg daily keeps these strands from stretching and continues to keep the yolk centered, which is a beneficial position for the chick when they get ready to hatch. This act of gentle turning should be recreated as you collect eggs for your incubator.

My plan is to collect about two dozen Orpington eggs over a period of 5 or 6 days. I will store them in egg cartons with the big round end pointing up. This is where the air sac will form and from where the chick will begin breathing just before breaking out of its shell. I will prop up one end of the egg carton slightly, store in a safe, cool location in my home, and turn the eggs once daily until I’m ready to start the incubation process. It is recommended that you use clean eggs that have not been washed. You want the bloom to be intact during the incubating process to discourage any bacteria from entering the egg and causing it to go bad. Your eggs should have no cracks nor be misshapen. Collect eggs of average size and weight for your chicken breed. Extra large eggs (possible double yolks) and small eggs have a greater chance of not developing properly or hatching. Do not place your eggs in the refrigerator as the extreme cold temperatures will most likely render your eggs unviable. Eggs purchased from the grocery store are generally not considered to be fertile eggs, so don’t waste your time trying, plus they have been washed and refrigerated. Making sure that you have attainable goals, a reliable incubator, and the best eggs possible will certainly increase the likelihood of a successful hatch.

Note: There are many videos available regarding the incubating of chicken eggs. One of the authors that I found to be very informative is “Chickens In My Garden”.

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A Cheap and Simple Alternative to Laundry Soap

Troy here from the Hearty Hen House. I have recently been looking at ways to simplify my housework tasks and eliminate brand-name products with ingredient lists that make you feel like you need a Master’s in chemistry to be able to puzzle out. With more and more articles saying many of these mystery chemicals are hazardous to our health and well-being, I just decided to solve the issue by cutting the Gordian knot and making a laundry soap that was cheap, effective, and contained ingredients that I could wrap my head around.

This laundry soap has many nicknames, sometimes called Naptha Detergent, Naptha Wash, Washing Bubbles, and Old Home Soap, among many others, and it only has three ingredients. Those ingredients are Washing Soda, Borax, and Fels-Naptha.

Washing Soda (Sodium Carbonate): Washing soda is a powerful cleaning agent. This naturally occurring substance is derived from the ash of sodium-rich plants and is known for its high alkalinity. The high pH level of washing soda enables it to cut through grease and stains effectively, making it a staple in many cleaning recipes. Additionally, washing soda can help soften water, allowing the other ingredients in the laundry soap to perform more effectively by preventing minerals from interfering with the cleaning process. Its ability to neutralize odors without the use of harsh chemicals further enhances the appeal of including washing soda.

Borax (Sodium Borate): Borax is a naturally occurring mineral mined from the deposits of ancient lake beds. It has a wide range of uses, from household cleaning to laundry, thanks to its mild antiseptic, anti-fungal, and water-softening properties. In laundry soap, borax converts some water molecules to hydrogen peroxide, a mild bleach, making it excellent for brightening and deodorizing clothes. Its gentle nature makes it safe for washing a wide variety of fabrics. Borax also helps to stabilize the washing soda and Fels-Naptha mixture, ensuring a consistent and effective cleaning product.

Fels-Naptha: This traditional laundry bar soap has been used for over a century to treat stains before washing. Made from a combination of plant and animal fats, Fels-Naptha is particularly effective at breaking down greasy stains and soil on clothing. When grated and mixed with washing soda and borax, it acts as a surfactant, reducing the surface tension of water and allowing it to penetrate and clean fabrics easily.

The recipe is straightforward: one cup each of the Borax and the Washing Soda, and one grated bar of Fels-Naptha. To my knowledge, you can even swap out the Fels-Naptha for any simple lye soap of your choice.

In this case, I am using a large jar with measurements on the side. I am doing it for two reasons: first, these measurement marks are plenty precise enough for this purpose, and second is because these are all considered to be caustic in some way, and even if they aren’t or are less dangerous than other ingredients, I am going to play it safe. So I make sure to only mix the ingredients in the sealed jar, and I grate the Fels-Naptha while wearing nitrile gloves just in case. I use an inexpensive fine grater I found online, used solely for grating soap.

When you first add the grated soap into the jar, you’ll notice that it seems much larger than the other two ingredients, but give it a quick shake with the lid on tight, and you’ll get,

something that looks much more reasonable and way more homogeneous.

I then add this to a larger jar that is easier to scoop from and use two or three tablespoons per load.

I run my clothes on the cold settings without doing anything special, and they always come out clean. What do I do about smell, though? The clothes just come out mildly clean, and some people aren’t super used to that, and I wasn’t either. Because I already use wool balls in my laundry, I just added a few drops of essential oil to the wool ball during the drying step, and the clothes came out smelling nice and fresh.

From my rough estimates, this option costs around eleven cents per load, and I only need to buy a new bar of soap every handful of weeks until the Borax and the Washing Soda run out.

I hope this gives you some ideas for other money and hassle-saving changes you can make in your house.

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Is Alfalfa The Right Choice For Your Poultry?

Hay is not just for horses anymore!

Alfalfa is one of the predominant crops grown in the rural area where I live, and because we have horses and other farm animals, we happen to purchase a lot of it! Although we regularly feed alfalfa to our horses and other farm animals, I hadn’t ever really thought of feeding it to my chickens and geese until recently. And as I am learning, it turns out that alfalfa is actually good for a lot more things then just feeding to horses.

Apparently alfalfa is one of the oldest domesticated crops in the world and is presently grown on over 20 million acres of farmland in America. Alfalfa is part of the legume family, which was new to me. I always thought that legumes were beans and peas. Come to find out, that’s not the case. Other plants like clover, mesquite, lupine and locoweed are all part of the legume family. Not exactly what I think of when considering beans and peas.

The alfalfa plant is a perennial, living generally 4 to 8 years. It grows to a height of about 3 feet, and has a deep root system which allows it to seek out available sources of groundwater. In most areas, alfalfa can be harvested 3 to 4 times a year, but in some climates it can be harvested up to 11 times a year. The plants consist of roots, stems, leaves and small purple flowers. Following the flowers are spiraled fruits which contain 10 to 20 seeds.

The alfalfa plant is high in protein and contains a greater concentration of calcium, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, iron, and selenium then other grass feeds. It is considered a good source of calcium for all animals. I hope that includes chickens! It is also a good source of vitamins B, C, and K, and if you happen to be looking for deep yellow or orange yolks in your chicken’s eggs, you’ll be happy to know that alfalfa is high in carotenoids which are very efficient in coloring egg yolks.

There are many articles out there on alfalfa. Some articles state that alfalfa is difficult for chickens and geese to digest and might cause crop impaction. Other articles suggested that if the long stems were chopped, they were more easily digested. And, there are still others which talk more about the nutritional benefits and don’t really mention crop impaction.

When I decided to try feeding alfalfa to my chickens and geese, I considered these possible problems along with the nutritional benefits and the availability of alfalfa during the winter months when the ground is covered in snow. Here is what I did: First I made sure that my birds had access to plenty of grit to be able to adequately digest the alfalfa. Second, the alfalfa that I fed to my birds was the clean loose leaves found on the floor of the barn around broken bales, trying to avoid the long, thick stems. Lastly, I fed the alfalfa as a part of a well rounded diet which includes a variety of grains, fruits, vegetables, greens and other appropriate food sources for chickens and geese. The pan of alfalfa leaves that I initially offered my chickens and geese was met with enthusiasm. They were so excited to see the green on their winter plates.

I continue to give my birds a couple of handfuls of alfalfa leaves with their morning meal, making sure that all feed is eaten before any additional foods are offered in the evening. I don’t want my birds to eat only alfalfa to the exclusion of the other nutritious foods they get everyday. It is my belief that no animal should be fed the same diet day in and day out. Left to nature our animals would be enjoying a variety of foods and nutritional sources. I highly doubt that my hens would make a beeline in the pasture straight to that bag of processed layer feed while passing up leaves, seeds, bugs and worms. Although I know I can’t imitate Mother Nature perfectly, I try to give it my best shot. I do believe that prepackaged feeds have their place in an animal’s diet. After all, I can’t grow and process all my animal’s feed needs, nor do I want to. Animal health, longevity and enjoying mealtime are the goals on my farm. Another bonus is that alfalfa ranges between 15% to 20% crude protein.depending on the cutting. Even though I usually give my hens the winter off from egg laying, I think that this added source of protein should help my birds stay warm and healthy through the cold and be ready for a strong egg laying season as the days get longer.

So, my plan is to continue to provide my birds with a daily dose of alfalfa leaves, at least through the winter, and monitor their health, egg laying progress and enthusiasm at the sight of green alfalfa!

Sources:
Benefits of Alfalfa for Animals – Midwest Forage Association

The Benefits of Growing Alfalfa Extend Beyond Animal Feed

Wikipedia – Alfalfa

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Blue Egg Laying Chickens

It seems like lately, having hens that lay colorful eggs is all the craze. And it is fun to see a bowl or carton filled with eggs that range in color from white to various shades of brown, greens, blues, and even pinks. Dare I say that finding a white egg outside of a grocery store is becoming the anomaly! There is nothing wrong with raising chickens simply for their colorful eggs. Different breeds of chickens are being developed to accommodate the desire for varied egg colors. So let’s explore colorful egg layers.

blue/green eggs
A nest of blue/green eggs, laid by my “homegrown” Easter Egger.
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Bottle Feeding Your Baby Goat

There are several reasons why you might want or need to bottle feed your baby goat. We have a doe who after kidding refused to feed her babies. The young ones seemed to scare her to death! She was very good at watching over them from a safe distance, but if they came near her, she would bolt! We would milk the doe then bottle feed the babies. You might have a doe who just doesn’t have the milk supply to adequately nourish all her little ones. You might want to supplement the kiddo’s milk with a bottle just to increase their socialization and encourage them to be more people friendly. You might be taking on some kids from another farm who had been nursing off their mom but are not quite old enough to be weaned. Whatever your circumstance, bottle feeding your baby goat should not be a difficult or dreaded process. It should be fairly simple and enjoyed as much by you as the babies.

Young boy trying to bottle feed goat kid
Bottle feeding provides the perfect bonding opportunity for you and your baby goat.
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A Chicken’s 5 Senses

If you tend to equate the 5 senses of an animal to those of people, you can get things totally wrong. Animal’s senses vary a great deal depending on what type of animal they are. A predator who has to hunt for his meals will generally have a highly developed sense of smell, much more so than humans. For instance, a dog’s sense of smell is fascinating! They can literally break a scent down into individual components. A prey animal might have a more developed sense of sight, being quite adept at detecting motion in extended ranges. Chickens are considered prey animals. Let’s take a look at the development of their 5 senses.

grey hen (front). black hen (middle), white & grey hen (back)
Nature has equipped chickens with the senses necessary for survival.
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Can I Feed Eggs To My Chickens?

The answer to that question is a resounding YES! Eggs are an excellent source of protein and make a great treat for chickens. The egg white contains more than half of the egg’s protein and none of the fat. The yolk contains all of the fat and most of the egg’s vitamins. In fact the egg yolk is one of the few foods which naturally contains vitamin D. Eggs are not fortified with vitamin D as is milk and some brands of yogurt and orange juice. The egg is also considered a complete protein food because it has all of the essential amino acids, and it’s tasty. So, yes, it’s not only o.k. to feed eggs to your chickens, but eggs are a healthy supplement which your birds will thoroughly enjoy!

chickens eating mashed eggs
Your chickens will thoroughly enjoy a treat of scrambled eggs!
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A Duck’s 5 Senses

Whenever I go out to feed and visit with my ducks, there is one that inevitably gives me this cute little head-cocked, sly look. I wonder what’s going through her mind as she stares at me. Is she wondering if I have more treats than what I’m sharing, or does she suspect me of being a wolf in people’s clothing? She doesn’t seem to be afraid, just watching. Sizing me up. Taking it all in. This silly little duck got me wondering about the senses that a duck uses to navigate in their world…so I did some research.

white duck spiking the camera
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Can Chickens Eat Rice?

I remember going to weddings when I was younger, one of the best parts was getting one of those cute little netted bags that was tied with a pretty silky ribbon and contained rice. Throwing rice over the bride and groom as they ran to their waiting “Just Married” car was a much anticipated tradition at weddings. Apparently this tradition dates back to the ancient Romans. Tossing rice at the end of the wedding reception is meant to symbolize rain, which is said to be a sign of prosperity, fertility and good fortune. In more recent years, bird seed has replaced rice because some folks believed that rice was bad for birds, that if consumed the rice would mix with moisture in the birds stomach and expand and cause problems. In fact, you can still find evidence of this myth circulating on the internet today.

Chicken looking at can of rice
The truth is that uncooked rice is just fine for chickens.
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