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August 23, 2024August 23, 2024

What is That in My Egg!?

One of joys of having chickens is the ability to go out every day and eagerly collect those beautifully colored eggs. You know what you’re having for breakfast! You get your eggs to the kitchen, eye them proudly and prepare for cracking, already savoring the deliciousness you are about to enjoy! You crack your egg into a dish and are immediately puzzled because of some flaw in the much anticipated lovely deep hued yolk of perfection! Let’s take a look at some of those flaws and discover exactly what they are.

What’s that in my egg?

First let’s consider the color of the yolk. I often hear folks say that the darker the yolk, the richer the taste and more nutritious the egg. Is this true? What makes egg yolks dark in color and rich in flavor? Yes, the dark yellow, almost orange coloring of an egg yolk is a good sign of a healthy chicken, but did you know that it is what your chickens eat that is responsible for the color of the egg yolks they produce. Have you ever heard of Carotenoids? They are the yellow, orange, and red organic pigments that are produced by plants and algae, as well as some bacteria. These pigments are what give the characteristic color to pumpkins, carrots, corn, tomatoes, salmon, lobster, shrimp, and marigolds, to name a few. There are over 1,000 known carotenoids. Although animals don’t produce carotenoids they do need them for their antioxidant properties, immunity, reproduction and other health benefits. So, it’s a good idea to feed your chickens safe colorful fruits, vegetables, leafy greens, weeds and flowers. Carotenoid rich foods will affect the color of your chickens egg yolks. Commercial egg producers will poll consumers and then use
natural carotenoid extracts or synthetic carotenoids to achieve the specific yolk color that they believe their customers desire. The primary ingredients of most commercially produced chicken feeds is corn and soybean meal as well as some synthetic carotenoids.
Check out the label on your commercially produced layer feed to see what it contains. The carotenoids in these products will generally provide a medium yellow egg yolk. If you supplement a commercial feed with colorful treats, free-range your chickens, or
provide a versatile feeding program of colorful foods for your hens, you can expect darker variations of yellow and orange in your birds egg yolks. It’s all in the foods you provide! If you’re looking for a dark rich orange color, try including tomatoes and marigold petals in their diet and see what happens! As for the taste and nutritional value of the egg yolk, color isn’t really a good indicator of a more or less nutritious yolk. Scientifically speaking, lighter egg yolks are just as tasty and nutritious as darker colored yolks.

The color of the yolk is affected by what your chicken eats!

Have you ever spotted a small white circle somewhere on the surface of the yolk and wondered what the heck that was? This white spot is called the germinal disc and is more noticeable on fresh eggs. It’s the entrance to a tiny path that leads to the center of the yolk. It’s this path that the sperm in a fertilized egg will travel to create the embryo to form a baby chick. Once the egg is fertilized, several rings form around the dot, which is the one visible indication of a fertilized egg. This white spot is harmless, safe to eat and does not affect the taste of the egg.

The germinal disc

How about the long, white, squiggly, stringy things that can often be seen floating around the yolk and white of your egg? What is it called and what is it doing in my egg? When you crack a very fresh egg, you might see thin, white ropes trailing from the yolk. These are called chalaza and are simply twisted strands of protein that anchor the yolk in place in the center of the egg white. They are normally only visible in very fresh eggs. They are perfectly
edible, but you can remove them before cooking your egg if you prefer. Like little anchors, they attach the yolk’s casing to the membrane lining the eggshell. The more prominent they are, the fresher the egg.

Chalaza

Have you ever wondered what that small brown spot floating around in the egg white is. Nope, not the beginnings of a baby chick! These brown spots are called meat spots. They are most commonly found in the egg white and are typically formed from pieces of tissue picked up by the egg during formation when passing through the oviduct. These tiny protein deposits are totally fine to eat, but again can be removed before egg preparation.

Meat spot

Have you ever noticed a spot of blood on your egg yolk? When I was young, I was told that blood spot was a sign the egg had been fertilized and it was the beginning of embryo development. Not true! Occasionally you’ll find an egg with a tiny red speck (and sometimes not so tiny!) on the yolk called a blood spot. This is not an indication of a fertile egg, it’s merely a blood vessel that ruptured sometime during the formation of the egg. Although it’s perfectly edible, many people prefer to remove the spot before preparing the egg to eat.

Blood spot

Sometimes when I crack my egg into a dish the yolk will immediately break and begin to run. Is it rotten? The vitelline membrane is a thin covering that helps to keep the yolk contained. It’s strongest when the egg is fresh. This membrane allows fresh yolks to stand up nice and tall and not spread out when the egg is cracked. As the egg ages, this membrane thins and becomes weaker, making the yolk more likely to break when you crack it into your skillet. Even though the yolk breaks easily, it is still good to eat as long as there is no foul oder or abnormal coloring of the yolk or egg white.

The vitelline membrane

In most cases, the little oddities in your freshly cracked egg are harmless, though it is often best to err on the side of caution. If the egg looks off to you or smells funny, or if you simply don’t feel comfortable eating it, then don’t!

Resources:

What is the White Spot on Egg Yolks?

https://www.organicvalley.coop/blog/what-does-egg-yolk-color-mean

https://www.eggs.ca/eggs101/view/4/all-about-the-egg

https://www.thenolthomestead.com/new-blog/2020/3/5/the-anatomy-of-an-egg#:~:text=A%20small%2C%20almost%20unnoticeable%20white,to%20form%20a%20baby%20chick.

July 9, 2024July 9, 2024

The Benefits of Wood Chips in Raised Bed Gardens

Hey folks, Troy here to share one of the projects I’ve been working on: adding wood chips to my last two garden beds. When it comes to maintaining healthy and productive raised garden beds, there is a lot to consider when it comes to cover material. One of the best options available, in my opinion, is wood chips. Here are the top benefits that I’ve found of using wood chips as a cover material for my raised garden beds.

Natural Insect Repellent

One of the primary benefits of using wood chips is their ability to help keep problematic insects away from your crops. The rough texture and dense cover of wood chips can deter pests from reaching the stems of your plants. Additionally, certain types of wood, such as cedar and pine, contain natural oils that are known to repel insects. This natural defense mechanism can help reduce the need for chemical pesticides, making your garden more eco-friendly and safe for beneficial insects like bees and butterflies.

Light Reflection and Water Conservation

Especially if you have dark, peaty looking top soil like my garden beds have, using naturally light-colored wood chips can help reflect some of the sunlight, which in turn works to keep the soil cooler. This reflective property is particularly beneficial in hotter climates, as it can prevent the soil from drying out too quickly. By maintaining more consistent soil moisture levels, you can reduce the frequency of watering, which conserves water and saves time. Moreover, cooler soil temperatures can lead to healthier root systems and better overall plant growth.

Weed Suppression

Weeds are a common nuisance in any garden, but wood chips provide an effective barrier against them. A thick layer of wood chips block sunlight from reaching the soil surface, which prevents weed seeds from germinating. This means less time spent weeding and more time enjoying your garden. But just make sure all of your veggies have sprouted before you add your wood chips, so that they don’t get smothered as well. That is why I had to wait before covering my last two beds. Additionally, as the wood chips break down over time, they add organic matter to the soil, improving its structure and fertility.

Make sure your seeds have all sprouted before adding wood chips.

Making Your Own Wood Chips

One of the great advantages of using wood chips is that you can easily make your own. Using a small electric wood chipper, I turn all of the small tree branches and other garden debris that I accrue when I do my pre-garden pruning into useful wood chips. This not only provides me with a constant supply of mulch but also helps in recycling garden waste efficiently, and lessens the amount of yard debris that I end up having to throw in the trash. This little Sunjoe chipper has been doing really well for me the last few years, and now that it’s slowing down I am looking at its new big brother as a replacement for next year.

Additional Benefits

* Soil Health Improvement: As wood chips decompose, they enrich the soil with organic matter, enhancing its structure, aeration, and water retention capacity. This leads to healthier, more robust plants.
* Aesthetic Appeal: Wood chips give your garden beds a neat and tidy appearance. They come in various colors and sizes, allowing you to choose the best option to match your garden’s aesthetics.
* Temperature Regulation: Wood chips act as an insulating layer, protecting plant roots from extreme temperature fluctuations. This is particularly useful during unexpected cold snaps or heatwaves.

Conclusion

I would encourage you to try incorporating wood chips as a cover material for your raised garden beds because of their many benefits, from natural pest control and water conservation to weed suppression and improved soil health. By choosing this organic and sustainable option, you can create a more efficient and beautiful garden space. Whether you are a seasoned gardener or just starting out, wood chips can be a valuable addition to your gardening toolkit. If you have had success with this kind of mulching in your garden, please let me know! I’d love to hear about your experience! Happy gardening!

References:
Tennessee Department of Environment and Conservation. (n.d.). Mulch and Mulching. Retrieved from https://www.tn.gov/environment/program-areas/sw-mm-organics/mulch.html
USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service. (n.d.). Mulching to improve soil health. Retrieved from https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/resources/guides-and-instructions/mulching-improve-soil-health.

June 4, 2024June 4, 2024

Modern Garden Tips: Balancing Nature and Science

Hey, it’s Troy here from the Hearty Henhouse, and I wanted to talk to you today about what we have been doing to get my garden ready this year. I practice a mix of gardening techniques that I think is a healthy balance of natural or passive gardening and intensive raised bed gardening. I think this is a good balance for me for a few reasons, so let’s dig into them.

I work a lot. It seems like every time I turn around, I am picking up another side gig or helping out someone with one of their projects, so I might have a few weekends where I can really put in the hours to set up a system, I don’t have the luxury of consistently spending half my weekends on maintenance. I feel like a lot of people who want to have a garden can relate, so here are some of the things I do that help me front load some effort to make my garden maintenance lower effort.

1- I try to reuse as much material as possible. When I limb my trees every year I let the fallen limbs lie until the leaves fall, and rake them into my compost, then I use a small electric wood chipper to turn the limbs into chips that I can use as cover. A couple of hours with a rake and a few Saturday afternoons with the chipper saved me probably twenty to forty dollars on wood chips and probably double that on soil. This year I added three new raised beds, and I while I did have to by a few bales of peat moss, I can’t fathom how much more it would have cost to fill all three without compost.

2- I try to automate any process I can. My watering is all done on timers. My older lot only has two hose bibs for the whole front yard and they both feed from the same line. So 2 four-way timers that I can set to water throughout the night can mean I am watering my garden and lawn throughout the night while I am asleep and the ground has the maximum time to soak up the water. I cover my crops with light-colored wood chips to help retain water and deter many kinds of common weeds and pests.

3- I try to make every part of my garden work for me. I have struggled for the last 9 years trying to revive a long-dead lawn on my property, and I have only started seeing marginal success when I pivoted my focus from traditional lawn grass to White Clover. Besides the fact it is the only thing that I can seem to get to grow in my lawn, the nitrogen-fixing properties of its clippings will be a great nutrient boost to my compost, and the white clover flowers will attract pollinating insects, which will help with plant fertility in my garden. I have also had a bare patch of soil next to a cement pad that only seems to be useful for growing weeds, and this year we are trying to “wild plant” Sunchokes (a.k.a. Jerusalem Artichokes)in that area to help crowd out the weeds. These are great species for wild planting because they are hearty in most grow zones, require little attention, and can be used from the flowers to their tubers. So, wish me luck, and I will report at the end of the year.

I’ve always found the debate between purely scientific planting and entirely naturalistic planting to be, at best, unnecessary and, at worst, counterproductive. By applying scientific analysis to natural systems, we can harness the strengths of both approaches. This allows us to optimize our gardens for our benefit rather than relying on the latest advertised miracle fertilizer.

If you have any questions or comments, please let us know here or on The Hearty Henhouse’s social media, I would love to hear your thoughts and input. Until I hear from you, happy planting!

May 10, 2024May 10, 2024

On Feeding Chickens: A Nutritious and Varied Diet for Your Flock

You know your chicken is excited for their meal when they get right in the middle of it!

I have been struggling for some time now with the thought of continuing to feed my chickens processed feeds. I recently saw a commercial for a newer brand of dog food and the spokesperson said something like ‘no animal should be made to eat the same food day after day’. That’s exactly how I feel about my animals, even my chickens, and I’m pretty sure they are all thinking that there has to be more to dinner then the same processed feed that they had for breakfast! We also hear a lot about creating our own chicken feed and how you need to be a math genius to figure out protein ratios. Honestly, I have never seen a free-range chicken pull out their meal planner and food tracking app and they seem to be some of the healthiest birds in the flock. When it comes to diet and nutrition, I believe our animals will generally make wise decisions if given healthy choices. I think that much of what we hear about feeding our poultry involves marketing strategies to help us spend money, and bloggers who don’t want to offer advice contrary to mainstream rhetoric. I remember when I got my first chickens, I fed my hens chicken scratch and table scraps. That was it! Not complicated at all. Of course that was some 20 years ago and poultry feed was most likely of a higher quality and I had a growing family with lots of table scraps.

Feeding our chickens a bag of name brand starter, grower or layer feed is by far a much simpler and a less time consuming process then trying to create and mix your own chicken feed. Many chicken farmers feed their birds strictly a commercially produced all around poultry feed, and this works great for them and their chickens. Personally, I have had a hard time trying to get my chickens to eat a specialized poultry feed. My chicks have always done great consuming a starter feed, but once I graduate them to a grower feed and then a layer feed, I start having some issues. I do believe in feeding variety, and I think once my birds find out that there is more to lunch than processed layer feed, they begin to look forward to excess garden harvests and table scraps and start to shun commercially processed feed.

A plate of cooked rice from dinner and eggs from breakfast.

Unfortunately I don’t have the land space to grow all of my own chicken feed, so I have to rely on purchased grains and other food sources, in addition to what I am able to grow and of course, good ole table scraps. I mean isn’t table scrap consumption and fresh eggs the two main reasons we started raising chickens in the first place?

So, what am I feeding my chickens these days? First, I did do some research and familiarized myself with the nutritional value of many different seeds, grains and legumes. Next, I experimented with what my chickens enjoyed eating and actually consumed. I want to steer away from GMO grains for the most part, but I am not able to eliminate all of them. I have a large barrel that I mix an adult chicken feed in. I add wheat, sunflower seeds, rice, rolled oats and chicken scratch. I use chicken scratch instead of cracked corn because of the added seeds in scratch that my birds enjoy and have nutritional value. I add in alfalfa leaves, various dried herbs and flowers and for calcium I save all the egg shells, dry and crush them and add them in. I tried rolled barley, dried lentils and split peas, but they were not well received. I have learned that lentils are a good source of protein, minerals, fiber and folate, so I sprout the lentils and feed them to my birds several times a week, especially during the winter, when they seem to be most needed and appreciated!

Because of their nutritional value, I sprout lentils to feed along with other grains and seeds.

I do not have exact measurements of how much of each product I mix together. I watched what the consumption of each individual product seemed to be and adjusted my mix based on that information. The lentils, split peas and rolled barley were always left in the feed pans at the end of the day so I just eliminated these. The wheat, sunflower seeds and scratch were always well consumed as were the dried herbs and flowers. The oats and rice were generally well consumed with only a little remaining in feed pans at the end of the day. So, approximately 1/2 to 2/3 of the mix is comprised of wheat, sunflower seeds and scratch. The remaining 1/3 to 1/2 is alfalfa leaves, oats, rice, dried herbs and flowers, and anything else that sounds healthy and nutritious such as raisins, dried fruits and vegetables, and nuts. Just use good judgement and avoid junk foods. I also feed my birds table scraps, sprouts, garden excesses and I have started a meal worm farm.

A few of the benefits that I see to feeding my birds this way include actually being able to see and recognize what foods my chickens are getting. The chickens can also recognize different foods and are able to pick out what they want and need to eat. If they need added protein, they can focus on eating more wheat and rice. If they need a boost of calcium, they seek out the eggshell. The roosters who don’t need as much calcium as the hens, can pass on the eggshell and lower their health risk of too much calcium. Because I know exactly what is in the chicken feed, I don’t worry if one of my goats happens to get in with the chickens and eat their feed. Everything that is in it is ok for other animals to eat as well. My birds seem to consume their feed better. There is not much left at the end of the day. They are more excited at mealtime, eagerly greeting me to find out what yummy morsels I have for them! My birds look healthy, have good feather growth, lay well and eggshell structure is good. I actually save a little money. Not much, but every saved penny counts!

This new system is working well for me at this point and I am pleased with the results. However, it is your responsibility as a chicken farmer to conduct your own research related to your chicken’s diet and nutrition and make informed decisions on how you choose to feed your birds. Raising healthy chickens should not be stressful or difficult, and sometimes we tend to overthink and complicate issues like feeding our birds. I think that our job in feeding our chickens a healthy diet can be a lot easier if we just take our clues from Mother Nature!

April 12, 2024April 12, 2024

What is GMO and What Does It Mean for My Animals?

Oh my gosh! If you have done any research into feeding your poultry, you have more than likely run across the terms GMO and non-GMO. The more you read, the more confusing it seems to get. On the surface, you kind of come to understand that GMO is bad and non-GMO is good. But really, what is GMO, what does it mean to our farm and farm animals, and how do we know what we are getting?

GMO stands for Genetically Modified Organism. GMO is the common term used to describe plants and animals or microbes in which DNA has been modified to include some desirable traits or exclude less desirable traits. This might be done by adding new genes, modifying pre-existing ones, or even removing some. It is believed that genetic modifications in agriculture have been going on since man first started farming. These modifications were accomplished through selective breeding, resulting in crops and animals that were more suited to specific terrains, environments, and weather conditions. Today however, GMO refers more to genetic modifications that have been made in a laboratory using genetic engineering and transgenic technology, adding genes, removing genes, or replacing genes. This creates combinations of plant, animal, bacteria, and virus genes that do not naturally occur in nature or through traditional crossbreeding or selective breeding methods.

The FDA, in their Timeline of Genetic Modifications, credits the development of genetic engineering in 1973 to two scientists who successfully figured out how to remove a gene from one organism and put it into another. The first genetically engineered crop was introduced in the US in 1994. It was the Flavr Savr tomato, modified to delay ripening. GMO seeds first became commercially available in the US in 1996. As of 2020, 94% of all soybean crops and 92% of all corn crops grown in the US were GMO. Today, there are a lot of human-grade foods that are GMO or contain GMO ingredients, but the majority of the GMO products that are grown in the United States are used in animal feed. It is believed that 95% of all animals used commercially for meat or dairy in the United States eat GMO food products.

It appears that there is a lot of controversy related to not only the use of GMO products but also the process of genetically altering organisms. Some feel that it is just not right to mess with Mother Nature in this way. Some religious and cultural communities are opposed to eating GMO food products, believing that this is an unnatural way of producing foods. Of course, genetic engineering of foods is fairly new, and although short-term testing has proven favorable in most cases, there is concern regarding the long-term effects of genetically modifying foods. After all, we have just recently begun to understand the harmful effects of microplastics, and plastic has been on the scene for a lot longer than GMOs.

It does appear that there are many positive outcomes resulting from genetic engineering, such as increased production of agricultural products as well as increased nutritional value. The results of engineered modifications can be realized in a shorter span of time compared to selective or crossbreeding methods. GMOs can also be good for the environment as crops can be engineered to require less watering or be made more resistant to pests, requiring the use of less pesticides. These crop improvements have the possibility of resulting in decreased consumer costs. GMOs have been used in livestock to eliminate characteristics that can be harmful if consumed by people with specific medical issues, and GMO was actually used when creating the first human insulin, a drug used to treat diabetes.

There is also a downside to instituting GMO processes. There is concern that cross-pollination with GMO plant species could have negative effects on native plants and pests. Genetic engineering could result in the evolution of super-pests and/or super-weeds or allow a once minor species of either pests or weeds to then become dominant. It is thought that some food products could become more allergenic due to genetic engineering, especially those food products which are known to be at a higher risk for allergic reactions, ie, peanuts and wheat. There are also concerns that the increased use of GMO products seems to correlate with an increase in some health issues in both people and livestock.

‘Smart Labels’ seem to be the new thing. To find out if a product is GMO or Non-GMO,
you need to scan a QR code that is on the back of the product’s packaging. In some
cases, you will also need to click on the ‘view certifications’ symbol.

Previously, in the United States, producers and sellers of GMO products were not required to label products as genetically modified. Due to the increase in GMO production, new processes, and public concern, the government is now requiring that GMO products intended for human consumption, as well as products that contain more than 5% bioengineered ingredients, be labeled. There is the belief that consumers have a right to know what food products they are eating. Of course, there are always the exclusions, and current labeling is limited to merely informing the consumer that a product is genetically modified but does not specify how it was modified or for what purpose. I could not find any information regarding the required labeling of animal feed, but a source involved with regulatory compliance of food sources informed me that there is legislation in the works to require labeling, but is not in place as of yet.

So, what does all of this mean for you and your farm? Chances are you have either worn, eaten, fed, or planted a GMO product, with or without knowing it. Your job as a small farmer is to decide your feelings regarding the use of GMO products for you, your family, and your animals. If you are opposed to GMO food sources for your animals, you can opt for organically grown products. In order to be classified as organic, food products can NOT have been genetically modified or contain any genetically modified ingredients. As well, organic animals cannot have eaten any GMO products. If you have the garden space, you can grow your own food for your animals, or at least a portion of it. GMO seeds appear to be available only to commercial farms. According to the FDA, seeds for the backyard gardener are not being genetically modified mainly due to cost factors. Many non-GMO proponents mention Monsanto seeds, which are 2nd generation-sterile. Reportedly, Monsanto has the patent to this sterilization technology, but claims not to use it. If you are concerned about the possibility of GMO seeds, use an heirloom variety. All heirloom seeds are non-GMO. Another option is feeding your animals food substitutes. We know that corn and soybeans are mainly GMO crops, so substitute foods like wheat, rice, barley, oats, lentils, peas, and sunflower seeds into your animal’s feed. Discover what your animals like and what meets their specific nutritional needs, then go for it!

Whether you go GMO or non-GMO is up to you; it’s a personal choice. There is no solid right or wrong answer at this time. I don’t believe genetic modification will be going away any time soon, but more likely expanding and being refined. Weighing the pros and cons of GMO processes will help you decide what is right for your farm and your animals, and that is what’s important: deciding what works and is right for YOU!

Sources:

https://www.studysmarter.co.uk/explanations/combined-science/synergy/genetic-modification

https://www.fda.gov/food/agricultural-biotechnology/how-gmos-are-regulated-united-states

https://www.fda.gov/food/agricultural-biotechnology/gmo-crops-animal-food-and-beyond

https://www.fda.gov/food/agricultural-biotechnology/gmo-crops-and-food-animals

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5790416

https://www.nongmoproject.org/risk-status/

https://tracegains.com/blog/pros-and-cons-of-mandatory-gmo-labeling

https://www.fda.gov/food/agricultural-biotechnology/science-and-history-gmos-and-other-food-modification-processes

March 16, 2024March 19, 2024

Preparing to Incubate Chicken Eggs: A Step-by-Step Guide

I’ve had chickens for a long time now, and every year or two, I go to my local feed store or online hatchery and order some baby chicks so that I can keep a decent supply of fresh eggs for my family year-round. In recent years, due to a pandemic and economic scares, it seems that more and more folks are attempting to become self-sufficient on some level, and raising chickens is on the incline; therefore, being able to procure baby chicks at a reasonable price has been on the decline. Don’t get me wrong, I applaud all those gearing up for elf-sufficiency it is a good thing. But, in figuring out ways to reduce my expenses last year, I decided that I was going to incubate and hatch my own chickens. This is not something that a chicken farmer should jump right into if you want to be successful. There are a few things that need consideration and planning.

The first thing that should be decided on are your goals for incubating and hatching chicks. Are you doing it for personal use or profit, or maybe a combination? It should be understood that just because you are hatching chicks to continue with egg production, your hatch will most like;y include many male chickens. What will you do with all those roosters? You should consider as well, the type of bird you want to breed. Are you looking for strictly high egg producers or a combination of good egg layer/meat bird? Are you thinking that you can sell day-old chicks, pullets, roosters, and/or extra eggs? Are you looking for specific breed qualities and characteristics, or is a barnyard mix-breed ok with you? I have noticed that in the rural area I live in, there is a market for fresh eggs and pullets, which are nearing egg-laying maturity. I do have family members who would be interested in chickens for eating, so that helps with the question of what to do with unwanted roosters. And, of course, you should think about numbers. Will the cost of an incubator be less than the cost of purchased chicks?

Last spring, when I decided that I was going to incubate and hatch my own chicks, I decided what my goals were: birds who were friendly, good brooders, above-average egg producers, and were also a good meat bird. I wanted hens who were good brooders so that I could rely on them to hatch and nurture chicks if that needed to be an option. I definitely want a good supply of eggs for my family, and a good meat bird is a must if I am looking for something to do with excess roosters. I decided on a breed of bird that I felt met these requirements, knowing that if I was happy with the results and decided to continue incubating and hatching chicks, I had a second breed of bird in mind that I would try next. So, in May of last year, I purchased ten Buff Orpingtons. As it turned out, one died and one is a rooster, thankfully. I have eight laying Orpington hens. They started laying mid November and continued laying through the winter. They are getting to the age where their eggs should be good for incubating and hatching.

At this point, I have been researching incubators. In choosing an incubator, it’s important to consider how many eggs and what type of eggs you are interested in hatching. I also want to hatch some duck eggs, so that will factor into my decision. Of course, price is a consideration, as are things like an automatic egg turner, stable temperature and humidity controls, an external water reservoir, egg visibility, and an egg candler. Be sure to read and watch lots of reviews on the incubators you are considering, the good and the bad. What someone deems a fault, you might be able to live with if the price is right or there is a suitable trade-off. Make sure to note any necessary accessories that might be required. Think about where you will house your incubator while it is operational. It should be somewhere where the room temperature is fairly consistent, is out of the way of other animals and is located where you will be inclined to check on it throughout the day.

Once you have your incubator all set up and it is working, it is time to start accumulating your fertilized eggs. Of course, it goes without saying, there must be at least one rooster in your flock in order for you to obtain fertile eggs. No rooster, no fertile eggs. An interesting fact regarding the mating ritual of chickens is that once the sperm from the rooster is deposited into the hen, the sperm can be stored inside the hen to fertilize eggs for days and even weeks after mating occurred. It takes a minimum of 36 hours for a hen to produce a hatchable fertile egg after mating. Once a hen lays an egg, it can be collected and stored at a cooler temperature, generally between 55 degrees F and 65 degrees F, for a period of about two weeks. The cooler temperature suspends the growth of the embryo inside the egg. This allows for the mother hen to be able to lay a nice clutch of eggs over a 2 week period and then begin to incubate the eggs and have them all hatch at about the same time. When the mother hens sits on the nest full-time, the increase in temperature due to her body heat will end the growth suspension, and embryonic development will begin once again. Pretty cool! Once a hen selects a nest for her eggs, she will lay one egg per day. Each day that she returns to the nest to lay an additional egg, she will instinctively turn all of the eggs in the nest. There are strands of white tissue called chalazae inside the egg that hold the yolk centered. Turning the egg daily keeps these strands from stretching and continues to keep the yolk centered, which is a beneficial position for the chick when they get ready to hatch. This act of gentle turning should be recreated as you collect eggs for your incubator.

My plan is to collect about two dozen Orpington eggs over a period of 5 or 6 days. I will store them in egg cartons with the big round end pointing up. This is where the air sac will form and from where the chick will begin breathing just before breaking out of its shell. I will prop up one end of the egg carton slightly, store in a safe, cool location in my home, and turn the eggs once daily until I’m ready to start the incubation process. It is recommended that you use clean eggs that have not been washed. You want the bloom to be intact during the incubating process to discourage any bacteria from entering the egg and causing it to go bad. Your eggs should have no cracks nor be misshapen. Collect eggs of average size and weight for your chicken breed. Extra large eggs (possible double yolks) and small eggs have a greater chance of not developing properly or hatching. Do not place your eggs in the refrigerator as the extreme cold temperatures will most likely render your eggs unviable. Eggs purchased from the grocery store are generally not considered to be fertile eggs, so don’t waste your time trying, plus they have been washed and refrigerated. Making sure that you have attainable goals, a reliable incubator, and the best eggs possible will certainly increase the likelihood of a successful hatch.

Note: There are many videos available regarding the incubating of chicken eggs. One of the authors that I found to be very informative is “Chickens In My Garden”.

March 2, 2024March 2, 2024

A Cheap and Simple Alternative to Laundry Soap

Troy here from the Hearty Hen House. I have recently been looking at ways to simplify my housework tasks and eliminate brand-name products with ingredient lists that make you feel like you need a Master’s in chemistry to be able to puzzle out. With more and more articles saying many of these mystery chemicals are hazardous to our health and well-being, I just decided to solve the issue by cutting the Gordian knot and making a laundry soap that was cheap, effective, and contained ingredients that I could wrap my head around.

This laundry soap has many nicknames, sometimes called Naptha Detergent, Naptha Wash, Washing Bubbles, and Old Home Soap, among many others, and it only has three ingredients. Those ingredients are Washing Soda, Borax, and Fels-Naptha.

Washing Soda (Sodium Carbonate): Washing soda is a powerful cleaning agent. This naturally occurring substance is derived from the ash of sodium-rich plants and is known for its high alkalinity. The high pH level of washing soda enables it to cut through grease and stains effectively, making it a staple in many cleaning recipes. Additionally, washing soda can help soften water, allowing the other ingredients in the laundry soap to perform more effectively by preventing minerals from interfering with the cleaning process. Its ability to neutralize odors without the use of harsh chemicals further enhances the appeal of including washing soda.

Borax (Sodium Borate): Borax is a naturally occurring mineral mined from the deposits of ancient lake beds. It has a wide range of uses, from household cleaning to laundry, thanks to its mild antiseptic, anti-fungal, and water-softening properties. In laundry soap, borax converts some water molecules to hydrogen peroxide, a mild bleach, making it excellent for brightening and deodorizing clothes. Its gentle nature makes it safe for washing a wide variety of fabrics. Borax also helps to stabilize the washing soda and Fels-Naptha mixture, ensuring a consistent and effective cleaning product.

Fels-Naptha: This traditional laundry bar soap has been used for over a century to treat stains before washing. Made from a combination of plant and animal fats, Fels-Naptha is particularly effective at breaking down greasy stains and soil on clothing. When grated and mixed with washing soda and borax, it acts as a surfactant, reducing the surface tension of water and allowing it to penetrate and clean fabrics easily.

The recipe is straightforward: one cup each of the Borax and the Washing Soda, and one grated bar of Fels-Naptha. To my knowledge, you can even swap out the Fels-Naptha for any simple lye soap of your choice.

In this case, I am using a large jar with measurements on the side. I am doing it for two reasons: first, these measurement marks are plenty precise enough for this purpose, and second is because these are all considered to be caustic in some way, and even if they aren’t or are less dangerous than other ingredients, I am going to play it safe. So I make sure to only mix the ingredients in the sealed jar, and I grate the Fels-Naptha while wearing nitrile gloves just in case. I use an inexpensive fine grater I found online, used solely for grating soap.

When you first add the grated soap into the jar, you’ll notice that it seems much larger than the other two ingredients, but give it a quick shake with the lid on tight, and you’ll get,

something that looks much more reasonable and way more homogeneous.

I then add this to a larger jar that is easier to scoop from and use two or three tablespoons per load.

I run my clothes on the cold settings without doing anything special, and they always come out clean. What do I do about smell, though? The clothes just come out mildly clean, and some people aren’t super used to that, and I wasn’t either. Because I already use wool balls in my laundry, I just added a few drops of essential oil to the wool ball during the drying step, and the clothes came out smelling nice and fresh.

From my rough estimates, this option costs around eleven cents per load, and I only need to buy a new bar of soap every handful of weeks until the Borax and the Washing Soda run out.

I hope this gives you some ideas for other money and hassle-saving changes you can make in your house.

February 23, 2024February 23, 2024

Barn Cats! Yea or Nay!

Whether you are new to farming, or are an old-time farmer, barn cats have been sure to come up in a conversation or two. Just what is a barn cat and what is their purpose?

Barn cat is just a term which identifies feral or semi-feral felines who work on a farm. Their jobs range from rodent and pest control to property protection, companionship and entertainment. A barn cat can be one that you get from a friend or neighbor, adopt from a shelter or even just a stray that wanders onto your farm looking hungry and forlorn. I have three official barn cats on my farm. They are pretty friendly. Their mom was a feral cat that came around and I was able to become friends with her. She had a litter of three kittens, which I helped deliver, and when they were about six weeks old she was killed. I kept the three kittens and they have been a great source of enjoyment for me. There is also an assortment of feral cats that come and go on the farm. It seems that in rural areas this is not at all uncommon. I would say that it is a good idea to get at least two cats so that they have a buddy, but there was a time when I had just one. He was so protective of “his” farm that he wouldn’t allow any other cats on the property.

Barn cats have proven themselves to be excellent at rodent control. A farm generally provides lots of tasty morsels and warm sleeping spaces for the likes of mice and rats, as well as rabbits, gophers, birds and even snakes. These critters can carry an array of tapeworms, parasites and nasty diseases, plus they have tendencies to be destructive, chewing on stuff they shouldn’t chew on. Barn cats provide a solution to rodent control without the use of harsh chemicals that could affect your farm animals if accidentally ingested. A barn cat has natural hunting instincts and knows what to go after. My cats will take down a wayward pigeon in no time flat, yet share a pan of table scraps with my chickens. You do have to be prepared for the occasional pile of plucked pigeon feathers or the “gift” your barn cat will leave at your doorstep, but most of the time your cat will be very efficient at rodent removal and you won’t even realize a hunt had taken place. Often times, just the presence of feline predators is enough to discourage any unwanted guests from taking up residence on your farm.

Caring for barn cats is fairly simple, but not completely free from effort. It comes down to just the three basics: health care, food and shelter. It’s a good idea to have your cats spayed or neutered to discourage unwanted cats from coming onto your property hoping to mate, and not adding to what seems to be an already explosive cat population. My sister-in-law is a real life kitty angel! She has adopted and feeds many feral cats, and their offspring. She was taking the cats that could be trapped to the vet for free spay and neuter to help control the population of unwanted cats. When that program was discontinued in her area, she paid for the spay and neutering of these special cats out of her own pocket. It takes a choice cat person to provide ferals with that kind of love. You should also consider getting your feline workers vaccinated to ensure their overall good health. Diseases such as rabies or distemper can have sad results on a farm. You will want to supplement their “wild diet” with a good cat food, just to make sure they are getting adequate nutrition. I like to think that my barn cats do such an awesome job at rodent control that there really aren’t too many critters to hunt down and I don’t want my cats strolling off to the neighbors in search of supplemental food. Even though barn cats are expected to be outdoor cats, and generally prefer to sleep outside, it is important to provide your feline with a place they will feel safe, secure and are able to escape inclement weather. It does not have to be expensive or fancy, and your cat will probably decide on their own where they want to take shelter, but make sure they have some options available: a barn, storage shed, in with the chickens, a dog house. My angel sister-in-law came through on this aspect for her feral cats, making insulated huts out of plastic storage bins for them. She has a regular little cat colony out in the orchard! My three barn cats have a spot in the garage where they can go. They too have an insulated hut, on which they prefer “rooftop” sleeping! One important caution here is that if you don’t offer some options for shelter, a feral cat might decide to climb onto a warm vehicle engine block for comfort. That can not only be deadly for the cat, but expensive for the vehicle owner. Said sister-in-law ended up with a three-legged feral cat as a house kitty and her husband a new serpentine belt on his truck. Always honk before starting your car on a cold morning!

I have had several barn cats through the years and have grown to love them all. Some were around for a long time, some just disappeared one day, and some fell victim to accidents. I like to think that I gave them a good life here on my farm, in exchange for a little work. I have chore helpers, danger spotters, bed checkers, rodent hunters and just plain comedians. My farm would not be complete without an assortment of barn cats!

February 9, 2024February 9, 2024

Stampin’ with the New Trucking Along Stamp Set

image of finished truck card which reads "Enjoy Today"

I love this Stampin’ Up stamp set called Trucking Along, that has a coordinating truck punch that goes with it. The truck reminds me of an old farm truck. One that has seen calves born and barns built, hauled many tons of animal feed and wire for mending fences. It’s probably even been on a few joy rides and a hunting trip or two. This stamp set is great for creating masculine or even general purpose cards, and just might bring back a few memories.

The one thing that really made me happy was how rustic looking the truck turned out. My artistic talents generally do not include coloring, blending, shadowing, or water coloring. The method that I used on this truck was super simple. I used the brown blends marker first to color in where I wanted my highlights to be. I then colored over it with the main color of my truck, and used a little gray on the tires. Lastly, I used the color lifter marker to blend and lighten the colors allowing for some varied shades, highlights and a more water colored look. I think it turned out super, and the color lifter technique is so easy.

The coloring process for the truck cutout

The supplies I used on this card in addition to the Trucking Along bundle include Pecan Pie, Very Vanilla, Mossy Meadow and Basic White card stock; Let’s Go Fishing designer series paper; blends markers; Forever Forest Dies; and the greeting stamped in Pecan Pie is from the Beach Day stamp set. Hope this card gives you some creative card ideas. Happy stamping!

The finished card with associated card tools around it.

February 3, 2024February 3, 2024

Is Alfalfa The Right Choice For Your Poultry?

Hay is not just for horses anymore!

Alfalfa is one of the predominant crops grown in the rural area where I live, and because we have horses and other farm animals, we happen to purchase a lot of it! Although we regularly feed alfalfa to our horses and other farm animals, I hadn’t ever really thought of feeding it to my chickens and geese until recently. And as I am learning, it turns out that alfalfa is actually good for a lot more things then just feeding to horses.

Apparently alfalfa is one of the oldest domesticated crops in the world and is presently grown on over 20 million acres of farmland in America. Alfalfa is part of the legume family, which was new to me. I always thought that legumes were beans and peas. Come to find out, that’s not the case. Other plants like clover, mesquite, lupine and locoweed are all part of the legume family. Not exactly what I think of when considering beans and peas.

The alfalfa plant is a perennial, living generally 4 to 8 years. It grows to a height of about 3 feet, and has a deep root system which allows it to seek out available sources of groundwater. In most areas, alfalfa can be harvested 3 to 4 times a year, but in some climates it can be harvested up to 11 times a year. The plants consist of roots, stems, leaves and small purple flowers. Following the flowers are spiraled fruits which contain 10 to 20 seeds.

The alfalfa plant is high in protein and contains a greater concentration of calcium, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, iron, and selenium then other grass feeds. It is considered a good source of calcium for all animals. I hope that includes chickens! It is also a good source of vitamins B, C, and K, and if you happen to be looking for deep yellow or orange yolks in your chicken’s eggs, you’ll be happy to know that alfalfa is high in carotenoids which are very efficient in coloring egg yolks.

There are many articles out there on alfalfa. Some articles state that alfalfa is difficult for chickens and geese to digest and might cause crop impaction. Other articles suggested that if the long stems were chopped, they were more easily digested. And, there are still others which talk more about the nutritional benefits and don’t really mention crop impaction.

When I decided to try feeding alfalfa to my chickens and geese, I considered these possible problems along with the nutritional benefits and the availability of alfalfa during the winter months when the ground is covered in snow. Here is what I did: First I made sure that my birds had access to plenty of grit to be able to adequately digest the alfalfa. Second, the alfalfa that I fed to my birds was the clean loose leaves found on the floor of the barn around broken bales, trying to avoid the long, thick stems. Lastly, I fed the alfalfa as a part of a well rounded diet which includes a variety of grains, fruits, vegetables, greens and other appropriate food sources for chickens and geese. The pan of alfalfa leaves that I initially offered my chickens and geese was met with enthusiasm. They were so excited to see the green on their winter plates.

I continue to give my birds a couple of handfuls of alfalfa leaves with their morning meal, making sure that all feed is eaten before any additional foods are offered in the evening. I don’t want my birds to eat only alfalfa to the exclusion of the other nutritious foods they get everyday. It is my belief that no animal should be fed the same diet day in and day out. Left to nature our animals would be enjoying a variety of foods and nutritional sources. I highly doubt that my hens would make a beeline in the pasture straight to that bag of processed layer feed while passing up leaves, seeds, bugs and worms. Although I know I can’t imitate Mother Nature perfectly, I try to give it my best shot. I do believe that prepackaged feeds have their place in an animal’s diet. After all, I can’t grow and process all my animal’s feed needs, nor do I want to. Animal health, longevity and enjoying mealtime are the goals on my farm. Another bonus is that alfalfa ranges between 15% to 20% crude protein.depending on the cutting. Even though I usually give my hens the winter off from egg laying, I think that this added source of protein should help my birds stay warm and healthy through the cold and be ready for a strong egg laying season as the days get longer.

So, my plan is to continue to provide my birds with a daily dose of alfalfa leaves, at least through the winter, and monitor their health, egg laying progress and enthusiasm at the sight of green alfalfa!